Long, Winding Road -- Oxford, Miss., Chef Took a Circuitous Route to Restaurant Success and Winning Prestigious James Beard Award

Summary

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John Currence's iPhone would do Apple proud. It's one hard- working piece of technology, rarely unused as its handler makes his way through his Oxford, Miss., kitchens and around the town.

There's a conversation about whales, which are soft-shell crabs a size larger than jumbos.

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Long, Winding Road -- Oxford, Miss., Chef Took a Circuitous Route to Restaurant Success and Winning Prestigious James Beard Award

His wife, Bess, calls, wondering where the workman is.

Currence doesn't know.

"I told him to go to the bottom of the stairs and yell until you woke up," he explains.

An unknown call comes in.

"Identify yourself," he says, then a beat: "Well, hello, Gourmet magazine."

It's actually Bon Appetit, but who's keeping up? The fact is, Currence is the man of the hour, the James Beard award-winn...

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