Slim's Tips Its Hat to South -- New Chef Pays Homage in Ways Both Predictable and Fanciful

Summary

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There is an antidote to the combination of low temperatures and high humidity we confront in a Memphis winter. It's taken orally, and it's called macaroni and cheese. At the Downtown restaurant Automatic Slim's Tonga Club, the homely remedy is elevated by an alluring combination of cheeses - cheddar, Parmesan, blue - melted over pasta flecked with dry-cured bacon from Benton's in Madisonville, Tenn. (At night, the menu indicates, this dish is more elegant, with brie, chevre and truffle oil.)

Almost 20 years ago, the kinetic force of artistic energy known as Karen Carrier turned the cozy 19th-century brick building across from The Peabody hotel's Second Street entrance into a glamorous hybrid restaurant, art gallery and occasional music performance scene. Carrier sold Slim's in 2008, and David Schrier recently became chef and general manager.

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Extract

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Slim's Tips Its Hat to South -- New Chef Pays Homage in Ways Both Predictable and Fanciful

Schrier said in a profile this fall in The Commercial Appeal that he likes Southern flourishes in his food, and he pays homage to the South on his menu in sometimes-predictable, sometimes-fanciful wa...

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